Another Day at Savute

6a -- In-person "Good morning!" wake up call
6:30a -- Guide escorted us to breakfast
7a -- Morning game drive, plus "Friendly tree" break
11:30a -- Brunch at camp and rest period
3p -- Drum beats signaling tea, afternoon game drive, plus "Friendly tree" break
6:30p -- Back to camp before park closes
7p -- Guide escorted us to cocktail hour
7:30p -- Drum beats signaling dinner

The different lodges generally followed this schedule. When dark, guests were escorted to/from rooms because of the possibility of animal encounters in camp.  It was exciting to know a beast could be right around the corner!  Spoor, or evidence of animals, were everywhere: tracks, feathers, dung -- we learned about various hoof prints, marking territories and sleeping habits.  Each morning we compared notes about which animals we heard during the night.

Travel between camps is by chartered plane.  Each camp is equipped with two-way radios to their home offices, but telephone, TV, fax, email and cell phone coverage are not available. Generators provide electricity to charge our device batteries, but there isn't power for hairdryers.  Each camp had relaxing common areas and a copy of Alexander McCall Smith's "Ladies' #1 Detective Agency" was in every library.   I also carried a copy to read as recommended by my friend Betsy.  I've enjoyed it so much I want to read the entire series.  Mum also read the series and remembered many details.  It's is a good primer for visiting Botswana.

Yesterday's king of the jungle found one of his co-king brothers.  We found them sleeping under the shade of a bush, one using the other's backside as a pillow.

Impala herds are led by a single male.  He spends his day keeping his herd together, chasing strays.  All that running around keeps him from getting a good meal and he is easily replaced by another.  Our guides joked about losers, that is, solitary or loose groups of males without harems and, after a while, we started calling out "loser" too when spotting loners.  Those with one horn remaining after a fight we called unicorns.  The "M"-stripe under the tail signifies McDonald's of the bush (common prey of big cats).

Despite their size, elephants move fast.  Gwist noted the six month old calf drank water from its mouth because it wouldn't learn to use its trunk until about age two.

Three male Ostriches strut their stuff.  These birds are big!

Can you spot the Leopard?  (pun intended)

It took forever to locate this female leopard after Gwist pointed it out, even with help from my family.  Gwist has binoculars for eyes -- the leopard blended with her surroundings and was far away.  Thank goodness for a new camera with its 16x zoom lens.

We watched the animal for a while, then it got up and changed positions.  Like our domestic house cats, this spotted feline liked having a good vantage point.  We watched until the leopard moved out of view.

A Rock Monitor Lizard, a big guy, was along the banks of Savute Channel across from our dining area.  The dry, grassy clumps are elephant dung.

I think these are Dwarf Mongoose.  They scampered about on the camp's path leading to/from the dining area and were smaller than the Banded Mongoose of yesterday.  Terrifically cute little critters!  The group numbered about a dozen.

Last night's main course, aka Greater Kudu.

One of a pair of Klipspringers, the only ones we saw, who mate for life.  Nearby were ancient San rock paintings (we were told), but we dared not venture close because a lioness was mothering her cub in the area.

Giraffe bones were bleached white from sunlight.

Coming around a corner in our 4x4, this adolescent and we were startled by each other, and it trumpeted in anger or fright.  Gwist said a more mature elephant would have taken it in stride.

We saw plenty of Vervet Monkeys and I couldn't help considering them as pets (just wondering).  They have nice faces and pretty fur.  I loved watching them play.

Fish eagle

Guinea Fowl

"Friendly tree" breaks were sometimes taken near an old baobab tree.  Gwist set the table with refreshments prepared by camp.  We had biltong (African-style beef jerky), veg/dip and fine pastries.  In the afternoon, Tien and Kuan enjoyed gin and tonic.

Baobab trees are magnificent.  At this size, they are a thousand years old.  Can you see me standing in front of the tree?  The afternoon sun was setting on us.  This friendly tree's backside was practical and private.  I don't mind telling you I became adept at peeing outdoors, a matter of pride, I must say.

We went back to check on the kings of the jungle and they were still lazing in the grass, both oblivious and snoozing contentedly.  Click on the image -- it's large for detail viewing.

By dusk, Kuan's eagle-like vision often spotted things as though it were broad daylight.  He saw this handsome Giant Eagle Owl high in a tree.  It is the largest owl in the world and was fairly noticeable once we knew where to look.

Before dinner, a herd of 14 elephants made their way across camp along Savute Channel.  Elephant herds are females with their young, led by a matriarch.  Other than the sounds of splashing water, elephants are generally quiet, except when you've startled a young one (see above).

New guests arrived and the choir sang for us again.  What joy!

Springbok carpaccio with guacamole, followed by beef stroganoff, Thai curry, pork, brown rice, salad and cheesecake.

Small Spotted Genets or common genets are related to mongoose and civets, and distantly related to cats.  Genets can be kept as exotic pets in the U.S.  This one frequented the bushes behind the serving area where we had meals.  It wasn't shy and stayed around for a long time.  Unfortunately, I wasn't able to photograph its extra-long banded tail.  Before Kuan called me to see it, I'd never heard of the species.  What a beauty!

Today's list:

Elephants, genet, impalas, klipspringers, female leopard, lions (2 of the 5 Linyanti brothers), banded and dwarf mongooses, rock monitor lizard, vervet monkeys, warthogs, wildebeests, and zebras

Arrow marked babblers, bateleur eagle, Bradfield’s hornbill, brown snake eagle, cormorant, crowned plovers, eagle owl, ground hornbill, northern black korhaan, secretary bird, tawny eagle

Hornbill call, red francolin call; tracks of hyena, honey badger, spring hare, hippo; recently dead elephant carcass was extremely smelly; thick skin caving in as body scavenged from rear