Savute Safari Lodge

At Victoria Falls Hotel we woke up early to take in the sunrise and it was glorious.  Water from the Falls sprayed sky-high.  The hotel's breakfast spread was gigantic, as it was at our Jo'burg hotel, and this became the norm at the hotels.  I guess we haven't been traveling very well until now if I'm surprised at these fast-breaking feasts.  I took this photo from the breakfast area.

A private van and luggage trailer transported our family from Victoria Falls Hotel to the border of Botswana, a 40 minute drive.  Nearly the entire drive looked like this, a smooth, paved road lined with grasses and trees, and no towns in between.  Grasses grow to about 8' and are harvested for use as roof materials.  The government mows and sells it.  Thatched roofs need replacing every 10-15 years according to our driver Dumi.  Dumi sold me two Zimbabwean Ten Billion Dollar notes for US$1.  He had a Hundred Trillion note, the most coveted denomination, but Kuan wasn't going for Dumi's price of US$5.

Once we reached Botswana, we got out of the van, walked across the border and went through customs where there was a free condom dispensary (condoms made in Malaysia).  Another driver took us to the Kasane airstrip.

  
"Welcome to Botswana. Littering is prohibited."


"NOTICE TO ALL TRAVELERS: All animals & animal products are subject to movement controls into & within Botswana. Please declare any animals & animal products in your possession to customs & veterinary officials. Thank you.
Director of Animal Health & Production"

We await our chartered plane at the Kasane airstrip terminal.

This poster in the terminal promoted circumcision using a banana as an example.  The event was at Choppies, a grocery retailer in Botswana -- makes one think twice about the chosen location!

This small propeller plane held nine.  From left to right, FIL, MIL, Kuan, Serene and Tien.

Our pilot Jimmy asked, "Who wants to be the co-pilot?" and I answered, "I DO!"  I think Dad, a pilot during younger days, was hoping for the opportunity.  This was the first of four small planes.

I looked back at the airstrip after takeoff.  This was the smallest plane I'd ever been in.  Loud engine noise, a bumpy ride and a new experience of flying low.  I saw elephants -- one was a baby.

Jimmy said he'd been a pilot for four years and does seven to 17 flights per day.  Gwist, our safari guide, met us at Savute airstrip which is inside Chobe National Park.

At Savute Safari Lodge, we were greeted with cool towels by Action, the lodge manager, and other staff members.  Incredibly, they never forgot any of our names.  Inside the gathering area, sunset colored "welcome drinks" of grenadine and orange juice were offered.  Serene couldn't get enough of these beverages and they became her trademark.

Creative Note:  When they held out the basket for used towels, I was more interested in the weaving.  This particular basket was used everyday for soiled towels and the work was finer than any I saw for sale.

This starling joined us at lunch.  It was black or rich deep blue, depending upon the light.  It was not shy either, and certainly hungry, as were the large hornbills who stole cheese from our meal.

Our spacious timber, thatch and glass chalet had a bedroom, sitting area and desk, bathroom, and a deck that ran the length of the building.  Side windows were mesh and handmade baskets decorated the interior.  Savute Safari Lodge has 12 suites for 24 guests.

Note the thatched grass roof that our driver spoke of.

Daily laundry service too -- pampered!

Before the afternoon game drive, we relaxed at the pool overlooking Savute Channel.  For a long time the channel was dry, but an earthquake released water and it's been filled since 2010.  Gwist was at the lodge and spoke of how quickly water poured in -- exciting!  To the left of the channel is a watering hole (not shown).  At one time it was natural, but is now fed by a pump from the lodge.  The high saline content draws many animals.

The lodge is surrounded by high voltage wires and heavy timber to prevent elephant damage.  They will break down anything in their path.  This is especially true in villages where peoples' homes may be unprotected.  Fruit trees in one's garden is not a good idea.

Before leaving for the afternoon game drive, we had tea with chocolate cake and blue cheese pastries.  I could get used to this.

This is Gwist.  He is educated, well-spoken, knowledgeable, and has a calm demeanor.  His specialty is birds.  We liked him for his great intelligence.  Specially outfitted 4-wheel drive safari vehicles gave all passengers unobstructed views.  Roofs were canvas and convenient interior pockets held our gear.  Blankets kept us warm during morning drives, but by 10a we were down to single layers.

No matter how many zebras we encountered, I was always struck.  Their mesmerizing stripes fascinated me, esp when they looked directly at us.  Tien remarked on their donkey-like shapes.  When they run in herds, some cleverly slow down while others speed up, giving predators an optical illusion, and probably a dizzying headache.

The lilac breasted roller is Botswana's national bird.  What lovely feathers!  We saw them everywhere and never tired of their colors.  The bird is small but is 14.5" due to a long tail.

Banded Mongoose

Greater Wildebeests

Weaver nests

Giraffe

This is one of five brothers, aka the Linyanti Boys, who are taking over the territory.  This male lion was undisturbed by our presence.

We watched for a while as he slept, then he awoke to clean his paws.  Eventually, he rolled over, looked around and sauntered away.  Maybe there was a burr in his paw, because he limped a bit at first.  He called for his brothers, but got no answer.

Sunset was nearing and the daylight was becoming golden.  It was our first day out and we visited with the king of the jungle.

The lion called out again, louder this time, in short, grunting roars that came from down in his abdomen.  Bursts of these deep vibrations were directional and we could feel the sounds pass through our chests and into our stomachs, esp when he faced us.  We were fascinated and unafraid; he was trying to locate his brothers.

The sun went down after a successful day of game viewing and these are sights I thought to make note of:

 

Baboons, cobra (snouted or spitting), dung beetles, giraffes, elephants, impala, greater kudus, male lion, banded mongooses, monkey, squirrels, steenbok, warthogs, common wildebeests, and zebras

Elephant dung, leopard tracks (body and tail), painted dogs (sign only, boohoo), termite mounds, and weaver bird nests

African fish eagle, blacksmith plover or lapwing, blue green starling, cattle egrets, francolins (loud!), grey hornbill, grey lorrie (go away bird), helmeted guinea fowl, kori bustard, lilac breasted rollers, long tail starling, martial eagle, ostrich, thornbill, and two banded courser

Acacia trees, marula trees without leaves, and mopane trees

* * * * * * * *

Although some daylight remained after the game drive, Action had seen a leopard near camp, so we were escorted to our rooms to freshen up before dinner.  The electric fences only keep out elephants.

 

During cocktail hour at the bar, the staff served and mingled with us.  Then, outside the main building, rich vocals came from the entire staff who gathered to sing.  They made their way into the bar area with the chef in the front row.  Their voices were clear and bold, conveying joy and warmth.  We later learned that Action leads a competitive choir.  His powerful voice came across beautifully during his lead.  Their singing was wonderful.  This choir was my favorite of the three camps we visited.

Dinner was served with a view of Savute Channel.  After guests were seated, Action welcomed new guests and bid farewell to departing guests, and the chef announced the menu.  To continue excellent hosting, Action and Gwist joined our table.  Elephants splashed in the water hole or in the Channel as we dined.  Kudu was our main course (gristly but with so much flavor); ratatouille, potatoes, chicken, dessert, wine, all yummy.  After dinner, Action told us stories about a lion pride who had invaded the camp some time ago.  I must say, our hosts are very good at what they do.  Makes me want to stay longer.

A full day -- what awaits tomorrow?